This Stunning Brazilian Island Used to House the Toughest Criminals in the World

It once housed some of Brazil’s most dangerous criminals and was also a 19th-century leper colony. Sound fun? Just read on to find out more.

Aside from the beauty and tranquility of the island, it has a fascinating, if dark, history that is worth knowing, if only because it makes the spot much more intriguing. You can tell all of your friends that you vacationed on a leper colony!

If you had tried to visit Ilha Grande in the 1990s, you would have been denied entry. At that point, the 75-square-mile island was still closed to tourists. That makes visiting it now even more exciting – knowing that you are one of the earliest tourists to visit this paradise.

Little did the explorer know that in future centuries, this tranquil island would become gain a less-than-stellar reputation. At one time, it was a paper colony, and for many years it served as a prison for some of Brazil’s most notorious criminals.

At first, the island housed a leper colony, as its distance from the mainland ensured that none of the infected residents would have contact with the rest of the population. Later on, the government built the Candido Mendes penal institute, which is still standing today. It closed in 1994.

The prison was notorious for housing these hardened criminals, and the government was pleased to keep them off the mainland of Brazil. Even though they were so confined geographically, these experienced prisoners still managed to create and run some of the most violent drug cartels in Brazil.

Tourists arrive from the mainland via ferries and fishing boats. Most come for a short or longer stay from what’s known as Rio de Janeiro’s Costa Verde, or Green Coast. They are looking for a break from the noise and traffic of the big city.

While its isolation and quiet make it a perfect vacation destination, that same isolation led to its being used by unsavory characters in past centuries. Away from the mainland meant being away from law enforcement, which was a plus for criminals.

Before the government decided the island was an ideal site for infectious patients and criminals, others had decided it was an ideal site for criminal activities. For example, pirates and smugglers found this the perfect place to carry out their nefarious work from this hidden gem.

There are over 100 kilometers of hiking trails around the shoreline and through the interior. Serious hikers can spend weeks exploring the island by taking different hiking routes.  Some tourists can even hike to remote lodges and spend the night taking in some glorious views.

Alternatively, tourists can visit the settlement where the correctional officers used to live, called Dois Rios.  The fact is, at one time, there were so many gang leaders that the authorities wanted to imprison on the island that there were two prisons built to hold them all.

Today, tourists get a thrill of seeing the abandoned prison, especially visitors interested in history. Likewise, photographers are drawn to the idyllic scenery in the midst of which was a prison for dangerous criminals.

The prison was located in a remote section of the island, so the trek to see it involves some very steep and treacherous hiking.  But those who make the hike will be excited to see Brazil’s own Alcatraz prison.

There you will be confronted with what is now a run-down building, where you can still see the prison bars and cells. But just being in the jail where some of the most dangerous drug lords lived and from which they actually ran their cartels can be a chilling experience.

It wasn’t the local population that was in danger; for some of the inmates, they were the targets of violence. The gang leaders who were incarcerated in this prison nurtured hatred between the drug gangs, making the prison a hotbed of violence. The infamous Comando Vemelho (“Red Command”) was born in the prison in the late 1970s.

The next step was to open the island to tourists. Along with that move, decisions were made about what kind of resort this would be. It seems to us that, at that point, it was decided to prohibit cars and keep the island as pristine as possible.

When tourists approach the island, they tend to comment about the lack of high-rise hotels and commercialism. This is no Miami Beach with its blocks and blocks of sky-scraping luxury hotels. Tourists stay in small guest houses and enjoy the quiet of the unspoiled scenery. 

The island is, in fact, closed to cars, so tourists transport themselves by foot, by bike, or by boat. There are many exquisite beaches on the island, and the easiest way to get from one to the other is to grab a taxi boat and glide on the beautiful water to your next destination.

Ilha Grande is home to many endangered species, and visitors love to go walking to spot them. These rare species include maned sloths and brown howler monkeys, but the most colorful residents are these parrots. Although we’re pretty sure that they will hear the brown howler monkeys first.

Not quite the drug cartel bosses, marmosets and howler monkeys can be a little noisy, but no one has accused them of gang violence.Their residence on the island has changed its reputation from a home for criminals to a home for nature’s beautiful creatures.

These dogs tend to lay on the beaches and are always friendly to visitors, especially the ones that have food!  Somehow these canines feel the peacefulness of Ilha Grande and take advantage of the quiet life. The island seems to help them stay calm and happy.

The main activity on this beach is surfing, and it is known for its huge waves. That might mean that swimming isn’t always ideal, but there are so many other beaches on Ilha Grande that any visitor will be able to find a perfect one.

Many hikers go one way by boat and the other way by foot. There are many other beaches around the island, and much has been written about the character of each. Whichever one you choose to lounge on, you’ll be surrounded by peace and quiet.  There are no boardwalks or commercial stores nearby.

Like the other beaches, don’t expect a surf shop with supplies waiting for you here. You need to bring your own surfboard and any other equipment you might need. No cafes or shops either, so bring a good supply of food for the day.

The hiking is not exactly danger-free, though. The wildlife on Ilha Grande includes lizards and tropical insects, some of which you might want to avoid. A good piece of advice is to ask the locals about how to protect yourself while hiking, and make sure you have trail maps!

These days, there are over 100 guest houses, as well as many campsites. In addition, backpackers take advantage of hostels that cater to people who prefer to stay in the simplest lodgings. It seems that any type of tourist in Ilha Grande can find a place to relax. 

In fact, the island hosts sea turtles, dolphins, and penguins. With such a wide variety of aquatic residents, the government of Brazil wanted to make sure that not only its beaches and mountains but its waters stayed untouched as well for the benefit of tourists.

You can imagine the fun of hiring a boat for a dinner cruise, a day-long tour of all of the beaches, or a simple hop from one beach to another for a day-long soak in the sun. Without cars to transport visitors, the friendly boat companies are happy to help enhance everyone’s vacation.

And here’s one more attraction to add to the list – lagoons and waterfalls can be discovered all over the island. If a tourist is taking a day to hike, it’s likely they’ll run into a beautiful waterfall and be able to cool off before the next leg of their trek. 

It’s pretty amazing to realize that an island that was home to infectious patients and then to hardened criminals has now become one of the most well-known vacation destinations in Brazil, if not the world. Kudos to the government of Brazil for turning the island into a protected environment that attracts visitors every day of the year.